There is always some work to be done when you are preparing the ground when planting your hedging, and much of this applies irrespective of your soil type.
If you have the time and energy it is best to mix in well-rotted compost and manure in advance of the planting day, to give the ground time to settle.
By improving the soil where you intend to plant your hedging, removing the weeds and putting down mulch fabric, you will be sure to end up with a hedge that establishes well, stays healthy and requires less maintenance.
A single row of hedging requires a prepared strip of ground strip 60cms wide while a double row (stock proof hedging is always planted in a double row) will need 90-100cms.
Step 1: Kill the Weeds You could use a spade if you only have turf to clear - either put the grassy clods upside down on the compost heap or just put them back upside down from where you lifted them if the soil is shallow.
However if you have tougher weeds , like nettles, docks and brambles then a glyphosate based weed-killer (like Round-up) is the surest way to clear a large area of tough weeds.
Spray it onto the leaves of all the plants in your strip at least four weeks before planting day.
Glyphosate is safe and breaks down cleanly in the soil, but still use all the usual spraying safety gear.
Within a month, even the toughest weed will be dead from the roots up.
You can then just leave them to rot down in the soil.
Step 2: Dig Over the Soil Try to push the head of your spade all the way into the ground along your strip - if the soil is hard or very stony it will need some attention.
You do not have to be perfect, but it helps to remove the larger bits of stone, rubble or rubbish.
If you are planting a long hedge and the ground is bad life gets much easier if you can hire a rotovator.
Cover your planting strip with a layer of well rotted manure or compost an inch thick and then just run the machine over it to churn the soil thoroughly.
It will throw out the large stones and roots at the same time.
Step 3: Improve it If it is not feasible to dig in well-rotted compost and/or manure or if your ground is good anyway then don't bother.
You will get a similar effect by spreading a layer of good stuff on the surface in the spring following planting.
The worms will come to the surface and drag it down into the soil for you.
If you have very thick clay soil with few stones, you can skip this step.
Do not dig a trench in thick clay; it will into a bath in heavy rain and remain full of water, which will rot the roots of most plants.
Step 4: Lay Down Mulch Fabric If you think the sheet of fabric might get stolen, leave this job until planting day! You will need some heavy stones or someone to help to hold the fabric down as you tuck it in to the edges of the strip.
You can buy pegs to make the job easier, but using a spade to push the very edge of the fabric is the most permanent solution.
Mulch fabric is not essential for garden hedging, but using some kind of mulch is a very effective way of keeping weeds out and preserving soil moisture.
Organic mulch will need to be raked over and refreshed every year.
Laying down mulch fabric and hiding it with a layer of thick bark chippings is a good combination and when your hedge is fully grown, you shouldn't be able to see the fabric anymore.
Now have a cup of tea, sit back and think about how great your plants will look when they are in the ground.