Preparation

• 1). Remove all wall hangings, window treatments, shelves and other removable pieces from the walls of your painting room. Remove as much furniture as possible. This will lower the chance of ruining your room's furniture and make it easier to reach the walls.
  
  
• 2). Clean the room thoroughly. Vacuum or mop the floors and wipe down the walls and baseboards with a cloth dampened in warm, soapy water. Rinse the walls in clean water. When the cleaning is complete, cover all remaining furniture and the floor with protective plastic sheeting to guard against paint damage. Secure the sheeting in place with painter's tape.
  
  
• 3). Fill small holes in the wall with spackle; use a putty knife to apply the spackle to the holes. Allow the spackle to dry per manufacturer's instructions and then sand the repair with fine-grit sandpaper, so the spackle is flush with the wall.
  
  
• 4). Prime the walls with latex primer; apply the primer with a paintbrush or paint roller. If your walls are already covered in latex or water-based paint or have already been primed, you do not need to prime again. Just add primer to the areas you repaired with spackle. Allow the primer to dry completely before continuing.
  
  
• 5). Use painter's tape to tape around borders, windows, doors, trim and any other areas that you do not wish to paint. The tape will protect areas from the paint you are about to apply.
  
  

Leather Faux Finish

• 1). Apply a base coat of latex semi-gloss paint; the color will vary depending on your preferences. Use a small paintbrush to cut in around the taped areas and a paint roller with a 3/8 inch nap cover to apply the paint to the larger sections of wall. Allow the base coat to dry for four to six hours (follow specific product instructions). Apply a second base coat if recommended by the product. Allow the final coat of base paint to dry for 24 hours before continuing.
  
  
• 2). Apply painter's tape to the joints between the wall on which you intend to start your leather finish and the conjoining walls and ceiling; it is best to work one wall at a time. Choose a small section of the wall (generally 2 to 3 feet wide) and roll glaze onto the whole section, saturating it thoroughly. Use a corner stippling tool to get glaze into crevices and corners that the roller will not reach.
  
  
• 3). Move the stippling brush in a straight pouncing motion across the surface of the damp glaze; change your angle of approach with each pounce, so it creates a mottled, leathery look on the surface. Clean the bristles on a lint-free rag every 20 pounces or whenever the bristles begin to clump together. Leave 2 to 3 inches at the edge of the section unstippled.
  
  
• 4). Repeat the stippling method with each section of each wall. Overlap sections by 2 to 3 inches and stipple the unstippled areas when you begin the adjoining section. Go back to the corners and other edges and use the corner stippling tool to match the pattern of the rest of the wall.
  
  
• 5). Carefully remove painter's tape while the glaze is still wet. Allow the glaze to dry for at least 48 hours before returning the settings to the wall.
  
  

Marble Faux Finish

• 1). Apply a base coat of white latex satin paint. Use a small paintbrush to cut in around the taped areas and use a paint roller with a 3/8-inch nap cover to apply the paint to the larger sections of wall. Allow the base coat to dry for four to six hours (follow specific product instructions). Apply a second base coat if recommended by the product. Allow the final coat of base paint to dry for 24 hours before continuing.
  
  
• 2). Mix your marble faux finish paint to create the marble color. Mix one part satin paint, one part faux glaze and one part water; do this with both of the colors your choose for your marble finish. Choose a 3 foot by 3 foot area of your wall to start with and apply a 1-foot-long squiggly line of each color to the wall. Use separate paintbrushes for the different colors.
  
  
• 3). Ball up a cheesecloth in your hand, so there are no ends dangling out. Blend the two paint colors together along the wall; rub in a figure-eight pattern for a rounded look. Rinse the cheesecloth in warm water when it accumulates too much paint to continue. Use this same technique across all the areas of wall that you want to marbleize. Allow all glaze and paint to dry before continuing.
  
  
• 4). Create marble veins by using a fine-tipped artist's brush dipped in the white latex satin paint. Apply thin veins of white paint at random on the surface; consult pictures of marble for examples. Avoid creating patterns with the paint. Soften the edges of each vein with horizontal strokes from a badger brush before the paint dries. Allow all paint to dry before continuing.
  
  
• 5). Apply a thin layer of clear polyurethane varnish with a paintbrush or roller. The varnish will give the walls a luster similar to marble and also will protect the wall from damage. Carefully remove the painter's tape while the varnish is still wet. Allow the varnish to dry for 48 hours before returning the settings to the wall.