How to Build a Banister on a Deck
- 1). Measure your deck, and draw an accurate scale replica on paper. Design your banister layout on this scale drawing. Calculate your wood requirements by adding a deck upright (picket) every 4 inches at most, according to most building codes, on your drawing where you wish the banister to be placed. Add a deck baluster (main banister support post) at least every 6 feet on your drawing where you wish the banister to be placed. Calculate the total railing length by adding the total amount of banister desired.
- 2). Determine the height of the banister. Most building codes specify a minimum height, although, for a nice touch, different heights may be used for different sections of the banister. Count the number of pickets and balusters to be used and multiply that number times the height (in feet) to determine the running feet of lumber required for each material. The railing quantity will be the overall length of the banister.
- 3). Purchase your materials. The lumber must be pressure treated and the nuts, bolts and washers must be corrosion resistant (zinc plated works well). Purchase 30 percent more of the two-by-two lumber since you will also be constructing battens (supports under the rail itself).
- 4). Drill two 1/2-inch holes using your power drill in the outer deck joist along the perimeter of the deck where the banister will be located. The holes should be spaced vertically 3 inches apart at every baluster location. Cut enough balusters the appropriate length (based on your scale drawing) to complete the banister. Drill 1/2-inch holes in the balusters. Bolt the balusters to the deck.
- 5). Cut enough railing from the two-by-six lumber to complete the top railing of the banister. Nail the railing to the top of the balusters with 3-inch nails.
- 6). Cut the uprights to the appropriate length, and nail them to the railing at the top, and the deck joist at the bottom using 3-inch nails. Use a level and tape measure to space and align them vertically. Cut and place a batten (using the two-by-two lumber) beneath the railing and between each upright. These serve as "blocks" to add support to the uprights.
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