How to Adjust Knitting Patterns
- 1). Knit a gauge swatch. Frequently, deviations in gauge between the pattern and reality cause the most problems with fit. Even though a gauge swatch should be knit for every project, sometimes we skip this step. For customizing fit you'll need to know how many rows and stitches it takes per inch, so you can adjust the pattern later on.
- 2). Measure any problem areas. For instance, a hat I'd planned as a gift was fine in the top and bill, but the band of the hat--where the fit is crucial--was way too small, despite the pattern calling it a large. At the risk of spoiling a surprise, you might need to take a tape measure to the areas you are concerned about. Multiplying the gauge numbers from your swatch by your measurement will tell you how many stitches should be in that section for a perfect fit.
- 3). Work backwards (also known as reverse engineering) on paper from the problems area(s) to the OK areas. Straight items or ones that use basic shapes are simple to lengthen or shorten, but the more fitted a garment is, the more adjustments it will require throughout the pattern. Follow through the pattern to identify where stitch numbers change; this is where you'll have to tread carefully.
- 4). Calculate the number of stitches you are shooting for at each measurement and adjust any shaping needed to get there. When increasing the overall size you can keep the same number of increases or decreases, spacing them out among your new stitch count. If you are adjusting the stitch count of one area, but not others, you'll need to adjust the number of increases and decreases to reach your stitch count. Spacing them evenly through the length of your fabric or grouping them together in sections will depend on the shape of your garment.
- 5). Try on the item when possible as you work through the adjusted pattern to make sure your customizing has succeeded. At the very least, stop and measure periodically and make any changes necessary as you go along.
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