How A Pellet Feeder Can Win You A Match
I was asked to write an article on the pellet feeder after its effectiveness in our Oaklands knock-up last weekend. I'll admit to being a huge fan of the method feeder and given the chance, i'd use it over any other method of fishing. I came across the pellet feeder by chance when Leigh from Angler's Paradise had a batch delivered by mistake by Preston Innovations. With him thinking of sending them back I said i'd take a couple and try them out in the knock-up and see if they were worth keeping. I went with the plan of fishing it for the 1st hour and if it didn't work out i'd switch to the method feeder or float tactics. After the 1st cast i never really looked back. In a match with 18 anglers fishing, only 4 managed to break the 20lb mark. I was delighted to grab 1st place with almost 80lb of carp. Here's how I did it....
I rigged the pellet feeder in exactly the same way that i rig my flat method feeders with the only different component being the feeder itself. For the rig you'll need a Preston inline pellet feeder (size or weight is all down to venue, time of year or just personal preference) 2 float stops and a Korum quick change bead. For the hooklink, I use Preston Reflo Powerline in either 0.15mm or 0.17mm. These are low diameter lines and have great breaking strains for their diameters. The float stops are optional but I like to use them as it helps with hook-up's as the feeder is turned into a bolt rig with the fish hooking themselves against the weight of the feeder. In the event of a break off, the float stops will eventually come off the mainline and this prevents the fish towing around a heavy feeder.
The length of a hooklink isn't governed too much over here as opposed to UK waters but I still don't like to go shorter than 4". I could have as many as 30-40 pre-tied hooklinks in my box when I go out as they take a lot of punishment during a session and I like to have a wide variety of hair rigging options so almost any bait can be used. I usually tie 4 types with Korum Quickstops, pellet bands, maggot clips and like in Oaklands on Saturday, a straightened out size 16 hook. I usually use barbed hooks when its allowed and in either form its a size 14 Kamasan Animal.
To rig the feeder, take your mainline and thread on 2 float stops (big enough not to pass through the rubber on the feeder) and then your feeder, pointed end 1st. Now attach your Korum quick change bead. The bead is used for the fast and easy change of hooklink and is in effect an end bead for your feeder to slide up to.
The feeder itself is loaded with either 2 or 3mm pellets. Groundbait isn't used as this is more suited to the method feeder. In my fishing I use either Sonubait's Fin perfect 2mm pellets or like in Oaklands on Saturday, Berkley Gulp! 3mm betaine pellets. On the hook I'd use a pellet 9 times out of 10. Be it hard, soft or expander, they're much better suited to the job. In Oaklands I used 2 6mm Dynamite swimstim betaine soft hooker pellets.
To prepare the pellets it really is simple. For every mm of pellet, soak them in water for that amount of minutes. So to fish with the 3mm pellets, I'd add a sufficient amount to a 2pt bait tub and completely cover them in water. Leave them to settle for 3 minutes and then drain off all the excess water. Leave them to stand for 15 minutes and they're ready to go. Sometimes a splash of water may be needed at this stage but having them too wet will ruin them so if in doubt, leave them as they are. What you are looking for is a an easy bind when squeezed in the hand and for them to crumble with a light prod. My little tip is to throw in a handful of ready mixed groundbait and mix them up. This helps fill the little gaps when binding and helps with an easy break down once in the water.
Once the pellets are ready, start by filling the feeder 3/4 full with pellets and give them enough of a push down just to hold the in. Bait your hooklink and sit this on top.
Grab a few more pellets and cap off the feeder. Damp them down just enough to hold them in place. Too much of a squeeze and the feeder won't empty when it hits the water. Your rig is now ready to go.
In my mind, the key to fishing both the pellet and method feeders is accuracy. This helps in getting a small feeding area built up when not connecting with fish and it also helps in getting the feeder in to where the fish are feeding. If you can cast accurately to a line-clip then there is no better way of doing this and with a bit of practice it's easy enough to get it down. If I can, like at Oaklands, I'll fish to a feature as this is where the fish love to feed in a safe manner. Cast to your spot and put your rod tip under the water to sink your line. Slowly apply tension by gently pulling your mainline with your free hand until both bits of line have met on the surface. Put the rod in the rests and apply a slight curve to the tip. Always sit at an angle to the water as I find fishing straight out increases the risk of break offs when fishing a tight line as the fish has nothing the cushion the initial run. the key to fishing these feeders is to sit and wait for that wrap around bite. Unlike feeder fishing for bream or tench where a 1" nod of the tip could be a bite, bites on these feeders are unmissable and don't even require you to strike. Simply lift the rod and play the fish. With the feeder out on the bottom you can see why its so effective. Can you spot the hookbait?
I notice when fishing to a feature that drop back indications are quite common. The tip might be dancing with line bites and then all of a sudden it might straighten up and stay there. In this case I tighten back to the curve. If it doesn't stay there then the fish has hooked itself and has come towards you. It may tighten to the curve and stay which could have just been an aggressive liner that knocked the feeder beck towards you. Sometimes as you tighten back to the curve the fish isn't too far away from its tightened position, the tip curves and keeps on going.
Always stay alert when fishing like this because even a fish of a couple of pounds can be quick enough and strong enough to take your rod into the water. Sit on your hands if you must but avoid all temptation to strike as the tip trembles with line bites. Depending on fish activity, you could find yourself on a bite a cast and if not I'd usually leave the feeder out for no more than 5-10 minutes in summer and 20-30 minutes in winter. I was almost on a fish a cast on Saturday and I noticed that if I landed the feeder even a foot outside the feeding area of the end of the island then line and bite activity suffered badly. I used almost 1kg of pellets on saturday so don't be afraid to put it out there.
All of the rig bits I used are available from Angler's Paradise. Go get yourself kitted out and hopefully with my advice you won't be too far away from those unmissable bites.
Tight Lines
I rigged the pellet feeder in exactly the same way that i rig my flat method feeders with the only different component being the feeder itself. For the rig you'll need a Preston inline pellet feeder (size or weight is all down to venue, time of year or just personal preference) 2 float stops and a Korum quick change bead. For the hooklink, I use Preston Reflo Powerline in either 0.15mm or 0.17mm. These are low diameter lines and have great breaking strains for their diameters. The float stops are optional but I like to use them as it helps with hook-up's as the feeder is turned into a bolt rig with the fish hooking themselves against the weight of the feeder. In the event of a break off, the float stops will eventually come off the mainline and this prevents the fish towing around a heavy feeder.
The length of a hooklink isn't governed too much over here as opposed to UK waters but I still don't like to go shorter than 4". I could have as many as 30-40 pre-tied hooklinks in my box when I go out as they take a lot of punishment during a session and I like to have a wide variety of hair rigging options so almost any bait can be used. I usually tie 4 types with Korum Quickstops, pellet bands, maggot clips and like in Oaklands on Saturday, a straightened out size 16 hook. I usually use barbed hooks when its allowed and in either form its a size 14 Kamasan Animal.
To rig the feeder, take your mainline and thread on 2 float stops (big enough not to pass through the rubber on the feeder) and then your feeder, pointed end 1st. Now attach your Korum quick change bead. The bead is used for the fast and easy change of hooklink and is in effect an end bead for your feeder to slide up to.
The feeder itself is loaded with either 2 or 3mm pellets. Groundbait isn't used as this is more suited to the method feeder. In my fishing I use either Sonubait's Fin perfect 2mm pellets or like in Oaklands on Saturday, Berkley Gulp! 3mm betaine pellets. On the hook I'd use a pellet 9 times out of 10. Be it hard, soft or expander, they're much better suited to the job. In Oaklands I used 2 6mm Dynamite swimstim betaine soft hooker pellets.
To prepare the pellets it really is simple. For every mm of pellet, soak them in water for that amount of minutes. So to fish with the 3mm pellets, I'd add a sufficient amount to a 2pt bait tub and completely cover them in water. Leave them to settle for 3 minutes and then drain off all the excess water. Leave them to stand for 15 minutes and they're ready to go. Sometimes a splash of water may be needed at this stage but having them too wet will ruin them so if in doubt, leave them as they are. What you are looking for is a an easy bind when squeezed in the hand and for them to crumble with a light prod. My little tip is to throw in a handful of ready mixed groundbait and mix them up. This helps fill the little gaps when binding and helps with an easy break down once in the water.
Once the pellets are ready, start by filling the feeder 3/4 full with pellets and give them enough of a push down just to hold the in. Bait your hooklink and sit this on top.
Grab a few more pellets and cap off the feeder. Damp them down just enough to hold them in place. Too much of a squeeze and the feeder won't empty when it hits the water. Your rig is now ready to go.
In my mind, the key to fishing both the pellet and method feeders is accuracy. This helps in getting a small feeding area built up when not connecting with fish and it also helps in getting the feeder in to where the fish are feeding. If you can cast accurately to a line-clip then there is no better way of doing this and with a bit of practice it's easy enough to get it down. If I can, like at Oaklands, I'll fish to a feature as this is where the fish love to feed in a safe manner. Cast to your spot and put your rod tip under the water to sink your line. Slowly apply tension by gently pulling your mainline with your free hand until both bits of line have met on the surface. Put the rod in the rests and apply a slight curve to the tip. Always sit at an angle to the water as I find fishing straight out increases the risk of break offs when fishing a tight line as the fish has nothing the cushion the initial run. the key to fishing these feeders is to sit and wait for that wrap around bite. Unlike feeder fishing for bream or tench where a 1" nod of the tip could be a bite, bites on these feeders are unmissable and don't even require you to strike. Simply lift the rod and play the fish. With the feeder out on the bottom you can see why its so effective. Can you spot the hookbait?
I notice when fishing to a feature that drop back indications are quite common. The tip might be dancing with line bites and then all of a sudden it might straighten up and stay there. In this case I tighten back to the curve. If it doesn't stay there then the fish has hooked itself and has come towards you. It may tighten to the curve and stay which could have just been an aggressive liner that knocked the feeder beck towards you. Sometimes as you tighten back to the curve the fish isn't too far away from its tightened position, the tip curves and keeps on going.
Always stay alert when fishing like this because even a fish of a couple of pounds can be quick enough and strong enough to take your rod into the water. Sit on your hands if you must but avoid all temptation to strike as the tip trembles with line bites. Depending on fish activity, you could find yourself on a bite a cast and if not I'd usually leave the feeder out for no more than 5-10 minutes in summer and 20-30 minutes in winter. I was almost on a fish a cast on Saturday and I noticed that if I landed the feeder even a foot outside the feeding area of the end of the island then line and bite activity suffered badly. I used almost 1kg of pellets on saturday so don't be afraid to put it out there.
All of the rig bits I used are available from Angler's Paradise. Go get yourself kitted out and hopefully with my advice you won't be too far away from those unmissable bites.
Tight Lines
Source...