Spark Plug Fundamentals
Proper Care and Installation Guidelines Changing spark plugs has to be nearly as simple as replacing light bulbs, but it's not.
Light bulb changing does not involve the use of a socket wrench or gapping tools.
A deep socket fitting a spark plug is not a suitable socket.
There are two things that differentiate it from a deep socket.
The first is a foam rubber insert that pads the spark plug when it is within the socket.
The second is the hexagonal part around the top of the socket.
The hexagonal area allows a wrench to set on the socket if there is not enough clearance for a ratchet.
Bikes generally have enough space for torque wrenches or ratchet, and yet the ability to accommodate a wrench to the socket comes in handy for bikes with Fat Bob tanks and several automotive applications (like a Corvette with headers).
For many decades there have been two common sizes of plug sockets.
80" Big Twin Evolution and Shovelhead engines need a 3/4" socket, while Twin Cams and Evo Sportsters need a 5/8" one.
Then something took place: plugs that needed an 11/16" socket appeared on the market, and 11/16" sockets are sometimes scarce.
I've seen people put a short length of foam pipe wrapping (usually used in water pies) in an 11/16" deep socket to make their own.
This technique is effective and is also an inexpensive approach to improvise a tool for people who does not change a lot of 11/16" plugs.
Spark Plug Gaps A plug gap is crucial in getting proper firing.
Many people assume plugs already have gaps from the manufacturing plant, which is not generally correct.
However, even if plugs are pre-gapped, activity during shipping could make the space several thousandths inches shorter.
Spacing a plug just isn't rocket science.
You only need the right tools, a bit of repeated attempts, and a bit of patience.
To begin with, feeler gauge and pliers are not the correct tools.
My preferred gapping tool is the simple, good-old wire-loop tool where each wire loop represents a specific gap size, and the metal tabs suit different ground electrodes.
My very least favorite may be the disc with the ramp around the edge.
The first disadvantage in the disc type is that it exerts tension in the core electrode while gapping.
Another problem is that often one side of the ground electrode may end up a bit farther out from the middle electrode.
On SplitFire and Screamin' Eagle plugs, 1 part of the ground electrode's prong could be higher than other plugs.
Observing 3 simple rules will help you effectively space plugs.
Initially, don't try to flex the core electrode.
Next, never ever bend the ground electrode laterally.
Work with the gapping tool to gently walk the tip of the ground electrode nearer or farther from the end of the center electrode.
Additionally, check out the gap by working out the correct wire loop through the gap.
The gap is correct once you feel a little amount of rubbing between the gap as the wire moves in the gap.
Replacing Plugs Right before the removal of a plug, hold off until the engine has cooled off, and then start using a burst of pressurized air to clear dust and dirt from the area surrounding the plug.
A ratchet and a spark plug socket are the desired utilities for this particular part of the task.
Once gently removing the plug wire by drawing on the boot, not the wire, we will take out the worn out plug with a ratchet and plug socket by rotating them counter-clockwise.
As soon as the worn out plugs are finally out, you're all set to set up the correctly spaced plugs.
Begin by applying a bit of lubricant around the threads of each plug.
Present day Harley Davidson motorcycles have aluminum heads and plugs have a steel shell.
Repeated cooling and heating of the heads may trigger a chemical reaction involving the aluminum cylinder head and steel plug shell.
The result is a plug that acts like it's welded in place.
After putting the lubricant oil on the plug threads, start turning the spark plug in a tighten manner.
Try using your fingers rather than a socket and ratchet.
A best practice that reduces the possibility of getting a cross threaded plug as well as the costly damage that can be caused.
Once the fresh plug is finger tight, reach for the plug tools.
The torque spec for plugs in a TC 88 is 11-18 ft-pounds, so split the difference and choose 15 ft-pounds.
That way, if the torque wrench is a little off for some reason, you'll still be within the required spec.
Is proper twisting vital for plug installation? Basically, yes! If the spark plug is a bit wobbly, high temperature transfer in the cylinder head can be reduced, while the spark plug may overheat.
When a plug is left loose, it can actually find its way out of the head resulting from vibration and combustion pressure.
And that is certainly very unhealthy.
Poorly tightened plugs have been held accountable for combustion chamber deposits being added to the threads of the plug hole.
On the other part, adjusting plugs excessively tight can cause other problems.
When a spark plug is tightened too much, the chances are it will be difficult to take out.
Turning the plugs too tight could also break the gasket within a gasket seat plug.
Over tightening can damage the threads in the head and has been blamed for distorting the gap.
Without a torque wrench, have the fresh spark plug finger tight and use a ratchet to slowly tighten the plug an extra quarter to half a turn.
Using this method is clearly a lot less accurate as compared to utilizing a torque wrench, however it can get you somewhere in the 11-18 ft-lb range.
This year, motorcycle festivals are going to kick off all throughout the US.
A ton of riders will be congregate for 1 week of celebration all sharing their adoration for bikes.
You will hear many stories and building tricks to converse about with different mates while you ride the time in the rally.
Make sure to drive safe and put on the required safety equipment like carbon fiber helmets.
All the best and have a wonderful ride.
Light bulb changing does not involve the use of a socket wrench or gapping tools.
A deep socket fitting a spark plug is not a suitable socket.
There are two things that differentiate it from a deep socket.
The first is a foam rubber insert that pads the spark plug when it is within the socket.
The second is the hexagonal part around the top of the socket.
The hexagonal area allows a wrench to set on the socket if there is not enough clearance for a ratchet.
Bikes generally have enough space for torque wrenches or ratchet, and yet the ability to accommodate a wrench to the socket comes in handy for bikes with Fat Bob tanks and several automotive applications (like a Corvette with headers).
For many decades there have been two common sizes of plug sockets.
80" Big Twin Evolution and Shovelhead engines need a 3/4" socket, while Twin Cams and Evo Sportsters need a 5/8" one.
Then something took place: plugs that needed an 11/16" socket appeared on the market, and 11/16" sockets are sometimes scarce.
I've seen people put a short length of foam pipe wrapping (usually used in water pies) in an 11/16" deep socket to make their own.
This technique is effective and is also an inexpensive approach to improvise a tool for people who does not change a lot of 11/16" plugs.
Spark Plug Gaps A plug gap is crucial in getting proper firing.
Many people assume plugs already have gaps from the manufacturing plant, which is not generally correct.
However, even if plugs are pre-gapped, activity during shipping could make the space several thousandths inches shorter.
Spacing a plug just isn't rocket science.
You only need the right tools, a bit of repeated attempts, and a bit of patience.
To begin with, feeler gauge and pliers are not the correct tools.
My preferred gapping tool is the simple, good-old wire-loop tool where each wire loop represents a specific gap size, and the metal tabs suit different ground electrodes.
My very least favorite may be the disc with the ramp around the edge.
The first disadvantage in the disc type is that it exerts tension in the core electrode while gapping.
Another problem is that often one side of the ground electrode may end up a bit farther out from the middle electrode.
On SplitFire and Screamin' Eagle plugs, 1 part of the ground electrode's prong could be higher than other plugs.
Observing 3 simple rules will help you effectively space plugs.
Initially, don't try to flex the core electrode.
Next, never ever bend the ground electrode laterally.
Work with the gapping tool to gently walk the tip of the ground electrode nearer or farther from the end of the center electrode.
Additionally, check out the gap by working out the correct wire loop through the gap.
The gap is correct once you feel a little amount of rubbing between the gap as the wire moves in the gap.
Replacing Plugs Right before the removal of a plug, hold off until the engine has cooled off, and then start using a burst of pressurized air to clear dust and dirt from the area surrounding the plug.
A ratchet and a spark plug socket are the desired utilities for this particular part of the task.
Once gently removing the plug wire by drawing on the boot, not the wire, we will take out the worn out plug with a ratchet and plug socket by rotating them counter-clockwise.
As soon as the worn out plugs are finally out, you're all set to set up the correctly spaced plugs.
Begin by applying a bit of lubricant around the threads of each plug.
Present day Harley Davidson motorcycles have aluminum heads and plugs have a steel shell.
Repeated cooling and heating of the heads may trigger a chemical reaction involving the aluminum cylinder head and steel plug shell.
The result is a plug that acts like it's welded in place.
After putting the lubricant oil on the plug threads, start turning the spark plug in a tighten manner.
Try using your fingers rather than a socket and ratchet.
A best practice that reduces the possibility of getting a cross threaded plug as well as the costly damage that can be caused.
Once the fresh plug is finger tight, reach for the plug tools.
The torque spec for plugs in a TC 88 is 11-18 ft-pounds, so split the difference and choose 15 ft-pounds.
That way, if the torque wrench is a little off for some reason, you'll still be within the required spec.
Is proper twisting vital for plug installation? Basically, yes! If the spark plug is a bit wobbly, high temperature transfer in the cylinder head can be reduced, while the spark plug may overheat.
When a plug is left loose, it can actually find its way out of the head resulting from vibration and combustion pressure.
And that is certainly very unhealthy.
Poorly tightened plugs have been held accountable for combustion chamber deposits being added to the threads of the plug hole.
On the other part, adjusting plugs excessively tight can cause other problems.
When a spark plug is tightened too much, the chances are it will be difficult to take out.
Turning the plugs too tight could also break the gasket within a gasket seat plug.
Over tightening can damage the threads in the head and has been blamed for distorting the gap.
Without a torque wrench, have the fresh spark plug finger tight and use a ratchet to slowly tighten the plug an extra quarter to half a turn.
Using this method is clearly a lot less accurate as compared to utilizing a torque wrench, however it can get you somewhere in the 11-18 ft-lb range.
This year, motorcycle festivals are going to kick off all throughout the US.
A ton of riders will be congregate for 1 week of celebration all sharing their adoration for bikes.
You will hear many stories and building tricks to converse about with different mates while you ride the time in the rally.
Make sure to drive safe and put on the required safety equipment like carbon fiber helmets.
All the best and have a wonderful ride.
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